A good cookbook is almost intimate, teaching you as it does to repeat the movements of its author to make something that they ate. It takes you outside of your own perspective and preferences and shows you another way of cooking and eating, something I need very much in this long stretch of cooking only for myself and my household

I love the small culinary traditions that keep the years moving round, serving as landmarks in our memory as well as something to look forward to.

It’s been a pleasure writing to you each week, from my kitchen to yours, throughout this hard year. I love seeing what you cook and hearing your thoughts on the best ways to use up an onion surplus, or how to make do during an onion shortage. I hope you’ve enjoyed the rollercoaster ride of eating seasonally, and that you’re as excited as I am to do it all again.

My freezer is full of cut out but unbaked cheese biscuits. There’s a (free-range, high-welfare) duck in there too, and goose fat in the fridge. I have made and iced cardamom shortbread and posted it out to everyone I’ve ever met for more than 15 minutes